Perhaps one of the lesser known facts about Cocker Spaniels is that they are very athletic dogs and have a natural gift for agility, tracking, retrieving and obedience. Often they are believed to be very low energy dogs that are mostly just couch potatoes. In fact the only way a cocker spaniel becomes a lazy dog is when the owner’s don’t provide enough exercise and play time to keep the dog healthy and active.

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When researching about Cocker Spaniels it is easy to find information on the breed, since during the years 1936-1952 and 1983-1990 they were ranked the number one breed in the USA in the American Kennel Club registration books. This popularity led to a large number of backyard breeders and puppy mills producing Cocker Spaniels which were very inferior to well breed dogs from kennels and caring breeders.

Buying from reputable breeders that know about Cocker Spaniels is highly recommended since this is the most effective way to screen for health issues, temperament and overall physical characteristics. You can also elect to adopt from a rescue that specializes in Cocker Spaniels to ensure you get a great personality and temperament match.

There is an important distinction to know about Cocker Spaniels before getting a puppy or dog. There are actually two different lines or types of Cockers. The first is the field line, which is the least common known of the two. These are lines that are bred specifically for hunting and they tend to have a shorter coat and a slightly longer muzzle than the show type. Show types of Cockers have thicker, longer coat and are the more common type seen at shows and as pets. Both are outstanding companion dogs and do well with children, other animals and other dogs.

Another key factor to note about Cocker Spaniels is that they are a good dog for smaller living spaces. While a small fenced yard is an ideal situation for a Cocker, they do very well in apartments if provided lots of regular long brisk walks and time to play off-leash at a dog park or fenced area. This breed is not a good match as a full time outside dog as they thrive on human companionship and attention and will begin to exhibit problem behaviors if constantly left alone.

As an all round companion dog and pet there is much about Cocker Spaniels that is appealing. They do have a coat that needs regular grooming with or without clipping, and they are moderate year round shedders. However, these dogs love human interaction so grooming isn’t a problem, plus with new styles of clips the requirements are relatively similar to other medium sized long haired dogs of any breed or type.

If Cocker Spaniel aggression does occur it is often over toys and food. These dogs do have a tendency to be somewhat possessive of food and their “things”. Owners need to start working on the issue from the puppy stage to prevent any possibility of the problem developing. Routine obedience work and socialization definitely will address this issue, as well ensuring that the dog understands that the humans in the house are the pack leaders.

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It is important at the first sign of Cocker Spaniel aggression over food or toys to immediately remove all objects that the dog sees as belonging to him or her. Any time the dog growls at a person when that person tries to touch the object is a potential problem. While growling isn’t necessary indicating the Cocker will bite or snap, it is a precursor in many cases. Take the toys away and only provide them to the dog when they are playing appropriately. The second a growl occurs again remove the toys, and then have the dog sit and work through some obedience exercises prior to having a chance to play with the toy again.

This exercise needs to happen each and every time there are any signs of Cocker Spaniel aggression over toys or food. When removing food always give it back to the dog after he or she is sitting and not showing any signs of growling or possible aggression. Never tease the dog with the food or remove the food and not give it back when the dog is behaving appropriately. In addition don’t allow children around the dog when it is eating if this is any concern. Often a child that is moving quickly or grabbing for the dog can trigger aggressive behaviors if the dog is not familiar with kids.

Cocker Spaniel aggression towards other dogs is typically a result of not enough socialization. If possible find a friend or family member that has a highly socialized, non-aggressive dog and provide opportunities for the two dogs to interact. Start out with both dogs on a leash, then gradually allow off leash time as socialization levels increase. Most Cockers are very non-aggressive towards other dogs so this is rarely a problem as long as some socialization is provided on a routine basis.

Cocker Spaniel aggression towards cats and other animals depends entirely on the dog’s experiences and interactions. Cockers can be excellent dogs in a household with cats provided they are correctly introduced or raised with cats from a young age. As with any dog avoid having birds or rodents in the same area as the dog unless they are securely caged and away from the dog.

Cocker spaniel barking is typically related to one of several possible issues. Some barking is very normal and even desirable, after all who doesn’t want their dog to sound an alarm when a stranger is at the door or an unfamiliar animal is in the yard? However, when this type of barking goes on incessantly it creates huge problems for both the owners and eventually for the dog. Cockers are somewhat prone to excessive territorial barking, so clearly teaching the “enough” command is critical from an early age.

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Enough is different than “no” since enough just means that is enough for now. No means don’t do that again, ever, which is an important distinction for your dog to make. Cocker Spaniel barking that stops on command is under control provided you are around to issue the command. When you aren’t there your dog still needs to refrain from barking continually or the neighbors will soon be upset with all the racket.

Cocker Spaniel barking that continues for prolonged periods of time is typically caused by fear, frustration and boredom, or because it has become a habit and a way to kill time when you are gone. Often a simple solution to these issues is to provide more exercise for the dog before you leave. An additional 20 to 30 minutes with a brisk walk or a jog will burn off a lot of energy for the pet, allowing them to relax and sleep while you are away.

Another important consideration with the Cocker Spaniel barking issues mentioned above is to make sure your dog has something to do when you are gone. Many Cocker Spaniel breeders recommend having a companion pet for the dog if he or she is going to be left alone for longer periods of time. Another Cocker Spaniel, a dog friendly cat, or even another friendly and playful canine are all good options. Providing some highly desirable toys, a large, meaty knuckle bone or a ball or two to play with will also help prevent these boredom and frustration barking issues.

One very serious type of Cocker Spaniel barking occurs if the dog exhibits signs of separation anxiety. As a highly interactive human geared dog, some Cocker Spaniels will become distressed and stressed if they are left alone in the home or in their crate. This can cause chronic, frantic types of barking along with chewing, messing in the house and extreme behavioral changes in the dog. Separation anxiety barking typically requires the support of a professional dog trainer and patience in working with the dog to lessen the anxiety of being alone. Thankfully the risk of this type of Cocker Spaniel barking is lessened by early obedience training, socialization and lots of positive interactions with the humans in the family.

As with any dog Cocker Spaniel biting can be an instinctual behavior that occurs if the dog feels cornered or threatened. Most often this occurs if the Cocker Spaniel is trapped physically or is grabbed and injured or hurt. In these situations the biting is a self preservation instinct and is not a fault of the dog at all. Humans have to watch for the signs of anxiety in dogs of any breed to prevent provoking Cocker Spaniel biting or snapping. Generally the early warning signs include growling, attempting to flee, tucking the tail between the legs and dropping the head and neck towards the ground. The dog typically also avoids any type of eye contact and may urinate submissively as a clear sign they are frightened and feeling threatened.

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In some cases puppy biting is a problem when the puppy is taken away from the mother and litter mates too soon. Cocker Spaniel biting at the puppy stage is because the puppy has not yet learned bite inhibition. To teach your puppy bite inhibition you don’t have to use harsh training methods, you can use the same technique the mother dog and the other puppies would use. When the puppy bites or nibbles at your fingers or other body parts simply give a sharp, high pitched “no” and immediately ignore the puppy. Don’t attend to the puppy until they are sitting or standing quietly, then again play with the puppy and provide attention when they are playing nicely.

Never hit the puppy on the nose or give him or her a swat as this is only going to increase their aggression or frighten the puppy into submission. Harsh treatment with this breed will ruin their temperament and their ability to bond with humans, creating a dog with behavior and socialization problems. Cocker Spaniel biting is not typically a problem within the breed providing the puppies have been properly trained.

Cocker Spaniel biting because of possessive behaviors over food or toys only occurs if the dog is not properly trained and socialized. By working with the Cocker Spaniel puppy from day one about sharing and giving up their toys and food to you, the leader, this issue can be completely prevented. Never tease the dog with food or remove the food without giving it back very shortly afterwards, typically when the dog follows a simple command such as sit. If, however, the dog growls or snaps when playing, remove the object he or she is possessive of and work with the dog on establishing your role as the leader. Obedience work and socialization are absolutely the keys to preventing Cocker Spaniel biting from becoming an issue with the breed.

Mouthing is also common in puppies of all breeds. It is a way for the puppy to learn about their environment through taste, smell and the feel of an object. Cocker Spaniel chewing can sometimes occur if a puppy is stressed or traumatized or removed from the mother and litter too early. In these situations the natural mouthing behavior becomes more significant and progresses into chewing.

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In the typical situation with Cocker Spaniel chewing the behavior occurs because the dog lacks appropriate things to chew, is bored and is chewing for something to do or if the dog is experiencing problems with separation anxiety. The reason behind the chewing is essential in retraining the dog. In some situations, especially separation anxiety, retraining can be challenging and may required professional assistance.

The easiest fix for Cocker Spaniel chewing is to buy a variety of chew toys that are approved for small to medium sized dogs. Having a variety means that your dog has options with which type of toy to chew on. Some dogs like softer toys while others like the hard surfaces, just make sure they are safe and vet approved before leaving the dog with the toy unsupervised.  In addition be careful that the toy is not too small and could be swallowed or that it doesn’t have features that can be chewed off an ingested.

Balls, ropes and even toys that randomly distribute treats are a great option for Cocker Spaniel chewing problems. These toys don’t stop the behavior; rather they provide an appropriate object for the dog to chew. Play with the dog with the toys and praise him or her for chewing on the right thing. If you do catch your Cocker Spaniel biting on the wrong object a sharp “no” and removing the object is usually enough. Immediately provide the dog with an acceptable chew toy and tell them they are a good dog when they chew on that toy.

When training be sure to remove any temptation for Cocker Spaniel chewing of the undesirable type. This may include keeping the dog confined to one room that is fully dog proofed. Remove all chewable objects such as pillows, remote controls, or clothing items, but do provide a wide range of good chewing options. Reward the dog for only chewing the right thing, which is his or her only option, until they understand what you expect.

As an important consideration be consistent in what Cocker Spaniel chewing is permissible and what is not. Don’t confuse the dog by allowing them to chew on soft stuffed toys if you don’t want them to chew on pillows and your clothing. Don’t allow them to chew on your old shoes if you don’t want the new shoes to be playthings as well. Keeping these few simple tips in mind will correct most basic chewing concerns.

Before getting started it is a good idea to read about how to clicker train Cocker Spaniel dogs and have a basic understanding of the theory. Clicker training works as an instantaneous cue that lets the dog know by a sound, not the human voice, that they are on the right track. The theory behind clicker training is similar to natural behavioral learning for dogs. They do something good and get a reward, then they repeat that behavior to get another reward. The clicker just acts as a cue that a reward is coming, giving immediate positive reinforcement.

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It is essential when learning how to clicker train Cocker Spaniel dogs that the dogs know what the clicker means. To do this all you have to do is find a quiet, distraction free area and simply click the clicker, then provide the dog a very tiny reward. Keep repeating this, just click, reward with a treat and repeat. Don’t give the dog any commands, all you are trying to do is get the dog to associate the sound of the clicker with the giving of a treat. Keep the treats really small a healthy, small pieces of boiled chicken or thin slices of all beef low or no sodium hotdogs are a good option. Once the Cocker understands the connection between the clicker and the treat you are ready to get started.

When people first learn how to clicker train Cocker Spaniel dogs or puppies they sometimes get confused with traditional training. In clicker training the dog learns the behavior and then the word cue, not the other way around. So all the trainer has to do is watch for the dog or puppy to do something desired, such as come over, then the dog immediately gets a click and a treat. Soon the puppy or dog comes because they know that at click and treat will follow. Once the Cocker is intentionally using the behavior, start to give a verbal command plus the click and the treat. Within a few short repetitions fade out the click and you have a dog that is trained to come on command.

The same principle is used no matter what command you eventually want the dog to learn. When reading how to clicker train Cocker Spaniel you will notice that it isn’t required for the dog to do the whole behavior, you can reward closer and closer approximations. This will be important with more challenging commands such as the down and stay command. Don’t give a command until the dog is already doing the behavior based on the positive feedback from the clicker and the food treats as well as your positive attention and rewards.

Cocker Spaniel crate training works because all dogs have a natural den instinct. They will not mess in their living area, providing you with the perfect situation to facilitate housetraining. Getting the Cocker Spaniel to feel comfortable in the crate is the first step in training and provides a relaxing, personal space for the dog or puppy.

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Start by lining the crate with a soft, washable liner. This is important to prevent the dog or puppy from slipping inside the crate, plus it allows you to easily clean up any accidents that may occur. For smaller puppies a soft towel may be a good option during the housetraining and then a more typical dog bed can be added after training is complete.

Keep the crate open in the puppy’s play and sleeping area and encourage the puppy to step into the crate, never confining him or her to the crate to avoid traumatizing the puppy. The same is true if you are working with an adult dog. Toss a few small treats just inside and allow the puppy or dog to walk in and get the treats then come back out as they choose. Avoid praising the dog on the way out as you want to provide the verbal praise as they are walking in. Once the dog or puppy is going in and out you are well on your way in your Cocker Spaniel crate training.

The next step in Cocker Spaniel crate training includes adding some toys into the crate and closing the gate or door for just a short period of time, perhaps one minute or so. Before the puppy or dog starts to whimper or whine, open the crate but don’t call the dog out, rather let him or her stay in if they choose. Over time gradually increase the amount of time the door is closed. Never open the door because the dog whines, barks or cries or you will be reinforcing this behavior.

There are some Cocker Spaniel crate training rules to carefully observe. The first and most important is to never use the crate as a punishment area. The crate is not a time out place and needs to be a positive area for the puppy or dog at all times. If used for punishment the dog will resent being in the crate, creating a natural dislike of being inside.

Another important Cocker Spaniel crate training tip is to never keep the dog in the crate for longer than developmentally appropriate. No adult dog should be confined to a crate on a continual, daily basis for more than 9 hours at the very most. Puppies under the age of six months will need at least a break out of the crate once every four hours plus regular exercise and playtime.

Usually Cocker Spaniel digging is most evident when the dog or dogs are left outside on their own for long periods of time. It is often combined with barking and chewing problems, however in some situations digging can occur on its own. All dogs dig for a variety of reasons but the most common are to get out and to keep busy. Determining which reason is causing the issue is the first step in managing the behavior and turning it into something you can live with.

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Cocker Spaniel digging to get out is usually most commonly found in adult males and females that have not been neutered or spayed. The urge to reproduce is very strong and highly motivating for all animals, and your cute little Cocker is no different. Male dogs that are not neutered have the ability to detect the pheromones produced by a female in heat of a distance of up to 1.2 miles in the city and even further in open suburban and urban areas.  Males will dig frantically to get out and find the female, often resulting in dogs that become lost or injured due to fighting with other males or accidents in traffic. Females can likewise become obsessed with getting out to breed, resulting in the same type of digging behavior.

This type of Cocker Spaniel digging is completely preventable and can be easily controlled. Keeping females in heat indoors or in a kennel or run with a cement floor or submerged solid base is the best option. In addition spaying or neutering all dogs not used in carefully controlled and selective breeding programs is also a necessity for the dog’s safety and well being.

Cocker Spaniel digging that occurs because of boredom or because of a habitual behavior is slightly more challenging to deal with. Boredom diggers can be helped by providing additional exercise before the dog is left alone in the yard, providing a selection of good quality chew toys to play with or even leaving a bone to keep the dog busy and entertained. If, however, the digging has become a habit it will need to be more carefully channeled.

A good option to control Cocker Spaniel digging around the yard or in your favorite flower bed is to designate a part of the yard, even just a few square feet, as the digging zone. Till the soil and keep it soft and dry, this will encourage the dog to dig in this area. Add some treats and toys just under the surface and praise the dog for digging in the right area. Discourage digging in other areas by keeping the soil wet, using natural repellents like citronella sprays, pepper sprays or citrus sprays.

Cocker Spaniel digging may not be completely eliminated once the dog has developed the habit, but you can ensure that they dig only in selected areas of the yard. Remember to keep praising the dog for digging in the designated area while making the other dig sites less appealing.

It is important not to encourage Cocker Spaniel growling with puppies or with dogs, no matter how cute it may seem at the time. Once a dog begins to think he or she is the pack leader, following commands or listening to humans will become more and more of a problem. There is no need to specifically pushing the dog, simply ignoring the behavior and stopping the interaction is all it takes to prevent growling from becoming a bad habit.

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Some Cocker Spaniel growling may occur if the dog has not been properly socialized or obedience trained. Typically these dogs are very territorial and possessive; however this is not a trait of the breed rather a sign of poor training and socialization. Providing structured interactions with a firm, consistent trainer as well as providing opportunities for the dog to interact with different people is often all that is needed to prevent the problem from escalating.

When other strange dogs are present Cocker Spaniel growling is likely used to establish their territory and develop a sense of which is top dog in the group. Often this type of growling includes a lot of posturing with heads raised, tails raised and the typical sniffing and testing behaviors that is common in all dog breeds. A certain amount of this is very normal and instinctual, however with Cocker Spaniels there is rarely any actual aggression. As your Cocker becomes more accustom to being around a variety of dogs, especially in the dog park, at shows or during competitions this issue will resolve itself provided you praise the dog for greeting other dogs calmly and without and avoid aggressive dogs.

Cocker Spaniel growling in adult dogs is more problematic because it often signals signs of pain or health conditions. Often a Cocker Spaniel that growls when picked up or when playing may have some time of internal pain, muscular or joint problem. Hip dysplasia is very common within the breed and can cause significant pain even with younger dogs. Any sign of stiffness, lameness or inability to easily move from a sitting to a standing position needs to be completely checked by a vet. While there is no cure for hip dysplasia it can be treated using non-steroid medication or corticosteroids if it is in an advanced state.

Growling in Cocker Spaniels can also occur if eye problems are an issue or if the dog is having difficulty in seeing clearly. Any discharge from the eye, tearing or changes in the dog’s ability to see should be checked by a vet. Often medical reasons for Cocker Spaniel growling will be immediately corrected when the medical issue is addressed.

The first thing to consider is where to keep your puppy or dog and if you want the Cocker Spaniel house training to be in stages or in one step. It is possible to paper train a puppy then gradually move them  to relieving themselves outside. Generally puppy paper training is a good idea if you cannot be home with the dog or puppy on a regular basis. People that work are farther ahead paper training where at least the mess is in one area to clean up until the puppy develops enough bladder and bowel control to go the whole day. In rough terms a puppy over the age of six months should be able to hold their bladder for approximately six to eight hours and after about 10 months eight hours should not be a problem.

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Feeding Schedules

Puppies need to be fed frequently with most puppies at 8 weeks of age doing between with three or four smaller meals a day rather than two larger. Keeping feeding times on a schedule rather than allowing free access to food helps in timing when they need to go outside or be taken to the paper or puppy pad. Knowing when to watch for signs of needing to go to the bathroom is one sure way to stay on top of Cocker Spaniel house training regardless of the age of the puppy or dog.

When Cocker Spaniel house training keep in mind that  puppies will typically have a bowel movement 15 to 30 minutes after eating and most will also urinate at the same time, . Watching for signs of anxiety including sniffing the ground, trying to get out of sight or circling and whining is a good indicator of when the puppy needs to go to the designated toilet area. If you doing the Cocker Spaniel housetraining outside carry them to the door and always use the same exit from the home. Once they get more coordinated and faster with their movements they can walk beside you, getting the idea of where to go to signal they need to go outside.

Exercise and Sleep

Another key time to get the dog outside is immediately after waking and after the first few minutes of intensive play. Typically when the puppy is active it is easy to spot when they need to get out since they will suddenly stop and squat or simply stand and urinate. When this happens it is easy to use the above mentioned Cocker Spaniel house training technique of simply picking up the puppy and taking them outside or to the designated area. Be sure to provide lots of praise and attention for going to the bathroom in the right place, this will help instantly reward and reinforce the good behavior.